Vauxhall Owners Club

The ambient air sensor is on the front bumper (look up inside the bumper for a sensor with wiring around the intake slots lower down. Had one in the workshop once that was drinking fuel at an alarming rate - I tested it on a scantool and noticed that it was reading -41 degrees centigrade which would explain why it was running rich at those freezing temperature.

I would drop it into a garage to replace and also check out the rest of the engine at the same time

Its funny how some engines perfer the E5 which I totally get but won't i can't understand is how does any engine NOT like E5 but seems to be the case - certainly is on my bikes

Any other members have an opinion on this? E5 or E10 ?

Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi Taylor - welcome to the forum Modding cars is as you have already said is down to having a budget and also and most importantly, how you want it to look. Subtle mods are sometimes better than completely changing the look too much which can appear overwhelming to the eye. Bear in mind anything you do to the vehicle can affect the insurance, hence subtle body mods are better than changing engine and exhaust components. Also, tends to attract the attention of the local constabulary. Feel free to post up some pics of the car as it is and I'm sure other members can add their comments

I only ever run my BMW Z3 on E5 SuperUnleaded from Esso DIscovered just recently how much of a difference to performance, smoothness, response and even MPG. Never used it before as the cost is far higher than E10 but there is a reason for that and the benefits are worth the cost.

That's amazing Andy, just goes to show what the old motors can do, and regular maintenance as well

I cannot think of any damage that can occur with that ignition setting - many years ago Ignition Coils would overheat if the power was left on and the contact breakers in the closed position and then the coil would leak oil As far as I know there should be any problem with that nowadays but it doesn't take long to flatten a battery once its left on for a while with lights and numerous other possible sources of current drain. Halfords do a fitting service if you were to buy a replacement audio setup from them along with the wiring kit and any fascia plates you would need

I have found a drivers handbook from Vauxhall on their website https://www.vauxhall.co.uk/content/dam/vauxhall/Home/PDFs/owners/owners-manuals/meriva/meriva-owners-manual-june-2012.pdf This is for the Meriva June 2012 but there is an earlier version for the model released in January 2012 (if there are any differences - which I doubt) Also, here is a link to a video guide section from Vauxhall which may be easier to see how to work these functions https://www.vauxhall.co.uk/owners/information-and-safety/how-to-videos.html

unfortunately it would be an expensive modification to equip the car with cruise control - including reprogramming control units to accept the new electronics

On most Volkswagens you have to swap a couple of wires over to get the aftermarket system to work and on the Alfa Romeo you have to join both the power and the ignition fed wires together to power the system up but that means its live all the time (e.g. when you leave the car and lock it up, etc). Thats where the switch comes in. I would only use the wires that are in place for the current audio system. Halfords sell adapter looms to fit the standard vehicle plugs and connect up to the new system

If you can find the interior cabin temperature sensor (usually on the dash area) then this may be blocked with dust, etc Try to locate it and clean around it to ensure it is correctly reading the cars interior temperature

I had the same problem on an Alfa Romeo Mito and I hardwired it to a permanent 12 volt supply. However, this is okay as long as you can switch the power down via an inline switch when then doesn't drain the battery if inadvertantly left swiched on

That's great news Andy and fuel filters are commonly overlooked on all makes and models of car, motorbike, you name it. May also be worth checking your coolant sensor and ambient air sensor (if fitted to your model) as sometimes they can give misleading information and that can affect idle speeds, etc

Yeh know what you mean, I ran Super Unleaded in my motorbikes and didn't make any difference to performance, etc. However, the Z3 (which is 25 years old now) and is in standard engine specs used to have a flat spot from about 1500 - 2500 rpm but as soon as I put the good stuff in it resolved that issue....If only I had know years ago as just put up with the running issue for so long.

Glad to hear its back to normal now Andy...good old maintenance is usually all they need sometimes. Are you running it on SuperUnleaded or just the regular Unleaded? Found my old BMW Z3 is a completely different car to drive on Super and although it costs a little more it is a much improved and smoother drive.

Thanks Andy for sharing the detailed report as it would be useful for anyone else who is experiencing the same issues. I don't think it does any harm to internally clean some components due to carbon build up and degrading seals and gaskets. I think we are yet to see how the increased Ethanol in fuel will affect the older vehicles particularly when it comes to seals and gaskets - only time will tell. Look forward to the updated reports

I would advise you pop into your local dealership parts department and get them to print out the diagram listing the individual parts for that component. Then you can order the relevant parts and also see how it all comes apart if the diagram is detailed enough. I also tend to ask parts departments if a particular parts sells a lot of - that way you can determine whether it is a known issue or not

How did you get on with it - any conclusion as to the cause ? Possibility it could be a mechanical issue but without testing that is hard to determine

that sounds more like gummed up vanes within the turbo - you could try a cleaner to see if that makes a difference - cheapest way to start and then give it an Italian Tune-up to clear the excess carbon from the engine. But if there is excess carbon on the turbo variable vanes and the plugs are contaminated with oil I would believe it may be a little more serious. A cylinder leak test would reveal if there is any wear or damage to a particular cylinder or valves - an easy test but may struggle to find a garage that has one or knows how to use it effectively to diagnose the issue

I would normally search through eBay first and see if other models such as Carlton may have same part numbers

According to this Google search, it appears it may be integrated inside the Engine ECU - worth checking hoses and electrical connections to and from the ECU

Hi AnyaMarie - welcome to the Club Good to have you onboard!

A few problems there to deal with then! - the window may be a wiring issue. If you open the door, with the ignition on and your finger on the button and slowly open and close the door at the same time and see if this triggers the window to operate. If so then it may well be the wiring coming from the A-Pillar/Bulkhead area to the drivers door (wiring inside rubber trunking breaks where door opens and closes frequently more than the other doors) The whistling sounds may well be a turbo boost hose or intercooler leak which is causing the noise