There should be a fault code associated with the lamps.
Maybe worth taking it to an independent garage to scan the ECU for stored fault codes and go from there
Hi Noodles59 ....welcome to the Club
Exciting times and always more so when you have to wait to collect it
Let us know what you think of it when you get it
The weight of the oil (O or 5) is relative to the ambient temperature (e.g hot climate or cold climate)
More important is the specifications of the oil (ACEA, SAE, etc)
If in doubt buy the oil from the local dealership
Maybe not been programmed into the cars settings
Usually done when brand new per customers request
Not sure if you can do this yourself so maybe worth looking through the handbook for instructions
There are a few images on a google search but this one may be easier to locate the sensor
Looks like number 13 to me (see image from link below)
Image of sensor
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185875547612?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=185875547612&targetid=1814673647742&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007215&poi=&campaignid=19089547614&mkgroupid=142438599285&rlsatarget=pla-1814673647742&abcId=9303859&merchantid=7446374&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuNemBhCBARIsADp74QS4itiaqqnZy-bCj6HJkvq0tS3LOc3S6-PCKQ0K-wg2exo0kc2hN0kaAqCxEALw_wcB
On Volkswagen you always had to swap over the red and yellow for aftermarket installs
Same 12 volts supply but one is permanent and the other is ignition switched
I don't think the SRS seatbelt stalks will cause an issue as long as they carry the same resistance (which I think they should do)...same with the side airbags I would imagine
Sounds like an oil pressure problem.
Has the oil and filter been changed each time with the turbo replacement?
Also smoking could also be the burning off of accumulated oil in the exhaust
May be the ignition barrel has not slotted in correctly upon assembly?
Try taking it out and seeing if the key turns in the barrel and slowly refit it turning the key all the time and if it gets to a point where it doesn't want to turn then this is where the issue is
It does sound like infrequent use of the car has led to the build up of carbon which disappear with more use and harder acceleration once the engine is hot
Hold it for longer revs through the gears(slip roads are good for this as you can see the soot being emitted from the exhaust when the power is on)
If the battery is flat then this would make that sound
Turn the headlights on and then turn the ignition, if the lights dim dramatically then its your battery that needs recharging
I would probably list in on eBay for an amount you would like to see for it and then can be your Starting Price and if it doesn't bid up to that amount then you know you've pitched it too high and start to drop it until it gets bids
It sounds like the clutch is dragging which means the driven plate is being slightly grabbed by the pressure plate and not being completely disconnected from the rotating flywheel
A poor quality clutch kit can do this and does get better when hot