Vauxhall Owners Club

Generally plenty of adapters and fascia plates to fit an aftermarket audio and camera If you can get a camera that connects to the reverse light bulb to feed it even better as some are bluetooth connection to the head unit

The brakes do normally have a dust cover but if the discs are worn and fitting new pads will decrease the efficiency of the braking for a period. If the cost is not too bad for the discs then maybe worth fitting at this stage

It could be clogged up with carbon and an engine clean with a company such as Terraclean may resolve this issue

I would start with replacing the coolant sensor first but coolant will overpressurise if air is allowed to enter the system (e.g. through a leaking sensor or coolant pressure cap that is weak)

If the oil is thin through diesel washdown then this can cause the oil to thin and leak everywhere Turbo would be my first thought for oil leaks and also burning oil

Not sure then, first thoughts are the clutch or brake pedal are not pushed down hard enough as this has caught me out before

Could start by spraying some Electrical Cleaner into the switch to see if that makes any difference If not then quite possibly a replacement is needed

Does the vehicle have a decent DAB aerial? If not, then I believe you can get boosters to draw in the stations

You have an issue with the engine management and would require a scan of the control unit to see what fault codes are stored in memory They all have a meaning and can be interpreted quite easily Get the scan and then get back to us with the codes

Sounds par for the course I'd say My motorbike does exactly the same (although sitting on a sidestand I can see why it would be slightly lower) but always rectifies itself when rolling up the road

You should be able to access the oil filter from underneath I would imagine as it would have to drain down (if it is a canister type filter)

Usually just a flat blade to pull out the poppers and a Philips or 10mm socket to remove any screws

It does sounds more like an internal fault Maybe worth swapping out for an aftermarket audio system Halfords stock a good range and also the fascia plates and connector leads needed to install it

Well as long as the engine is being driven hard enough (which diesels much prefer) then the EGR delete should be fine. Most of the issues are when the car is being driven on local short trips and not enough to burn off soot and carbon deposits

I recently managed to get one from a local parts factors (Jayar) and although it was a slightly different design and measurements as you have mentioned it did the job nicely. As long as the M10 fitting (tapered as I remember) is the same and the pressure reading limit stamped on it then its fine

Worth trying the comparison sites but don't know how much of a result you'll get as now a classic car and better to try more bespoke companies Try Adrian Flux as they may be able to offer you the right policy that suits you and the car https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/aci-insurance/?utm_source=VauxhallOwnersClub

A comprehensive pictorial history of all Vauxhall cars produced from 1945 up to and including models in production in 1995. This really is the ‘go-to’ publication if you need to compare your Vivas, Victors, Ventoras or Viceroys! Breaking down the many models into several chapters, this is a trip down memory lane for any postwar car enthusiast. Comprehensively illustrated, the book includes line drawings, black & white plus colour period photographs, together with interior detail. All models are covered along with sports derivatives, limited editions, vans, estates, coupes. It includes a section on motor sport achievements and TV/movie appearances. Contemporary factory advertising slogans used is key throughout. Complimenting the historical content, technical specifications, key production changes and build figures are also detailed. Trevor Alder has been driving Vauxhalls and Opels for many years and has previously written and compiled several Vauxhall/Opel publications from his massive self-indexed magazine archive. The research for this book suggests this a bookshelf-must for anyone interested in a slice of Britain's motoring heritage. Vauxhall Cars by Trevor Alder ISBN: 9781787115934 UPC: 6-36847-01593-0 AVAILABLE NOW at £19.99 (including p&p) from Transporterama - Car Books Store Buy a copy here: https://www.carbooks.store/collections/british-cars/products/vauxhall-cars-1945-to-1995

It sounds like a sensible way to proceed if there is wear in the turbo Usually best to buy a fitting kit when you purchase the cartridge then its a straightforward enough job Just remember that with a turbo rebuild 'cleanliness is next to godliness' and the slightest bit of dirt can destroy it almost instantly. Also change oil and filter and then pre-fill and prime the turbo to get the oil round before firing the engine

https://www.autotronics.co.uk/repair/services/instrument-cluster-repair/cars-trucks-instrument-cluster-repair/vauxhall-instrument-cluster-repair/vauxhall-vectra https://cartronix.co.uk/product-category/manufacturers/vauxhall/ A couple of repairers of dash panels listed above

Oh crikey that sounds like a strange issue you have there. If it was a dead short to earth for the power to the wipers I think it would have blown a fuse rather than switch the engine off Not sure on this one, I wonder if anyone else has had this issue

First thing I would do is top the oil up and then jetwash the affected area so that you can see where the oil is weeping from. Let us know what you find and then we can have a better idea as to the actual source of the leak

Is the battery condition up there or is it an old battery and not able to provide power to the Steering? If it is getting slow to crank the engine over then this is one of the first things to check or replace

Is the vehicle battery in good order (e.g. fully charged)? How bright are the headlamps when the ignition is on? Foot firmly on the brake pedal when trying to switch the engine on? Lock the car and unlock and try again

Its a tough one and can only be diagnose correctly by carrying out some tests and then dismantling to determine the damage Got to be worth at least running tests to see if it is the head gasket or water pump at fault - you may be surprised by the cheap cost if it is waterpump However, loss of oil may be because it hasn't been topped up in a while and may just need an oil change (looking at it optimistically) Let us know what you find out