Vauxhall Owners Club

Have a look at the range of units and aftermarket plinths and cable adapters at Halfords

Maybe another member with a Meriva of the same year could photograph their ABS unit? general rule of thumb would be to eliminate the pipes that reach the unit without having to bend them would be correct position

I would use Halfords oil selector by typing in your registration onto their system it lists the oil specs for your vehicle as you have already mentioned you are correct in going by the ACEA specs rather than just the grade (e.g 5w30) C3 is a low sulphur content and produces low ash content for the DPF to sort but this is not applicable to your car, but it wouldn't do any harm as such. It would be worth changing the PAS fluid but you would need to drop the old fluid out from the rack and then fill and bleed by turning the steering lock to lock with the engine running

I think they are 'snake oil' and don't really work. Maybe best to look at different driving styles, easiest way is to find a spot where your foot is hardly touching the throttle....its difficult but its how I drive nowadays, rather than the foot flat down of my youth

Maybe best to go into the rear light cluster and see what wire comes from the reverse light bulb holder, follow the wire through any connectors in case the colour changes

not sure it will be free but could locate some updates from satnav store at low cost

Feel free to post up some pics of the Signum if you would like to

From what I could hear it sounded like a flatspot on one of the tyres but it may also cause a shudder when driving?

Hi Topgear Astra ....good to have you onboard Any chance of uploading some pics of the car

Well it sounds like you have the fluid bleeding procedure off down to a tee and sometimes it can take an eternity to shift all the air so keep going and see how it ends up If its improving each time then may not have much more left to bleed out Let us know how you get on with it

Hi Morty and welcome to the club Sounds like crankshaft or camshaft position sensor to me Best bet is to get it scanned at your local garage to see if any fault codes come up

Its a tough one to resolve as the warranty would be tied into you taking the car to them for servicing However, according to Block Exemption Rules, if the car has been maintained by a registered repairer to manufacturers standards and following correct service schedules and using parts of equal quality then this should satisfy the warranty requirements laid down on paper. You could argue with them until they either fold or throw out your claim However you still have an issue that needs resolving. The garage that serviced the car should be able to carry out the work and get you back up and running. Let us know how you get on with it all

Hi MattR ....welcome to the Club Fine looking Insignia you have there Welcome onboard!

Has the fuel filter been replaced at any point, e.g. engine change or major service?

If its the spring then Halfords sell replacements Otherwise a scrapyard would be the best supply or a Vauxhall dealership if still available new Also check eBay as lots of used parts on there

Should be a switch on the mirror buttons area if not then it is not equipped with this function

It sounds like its all part of the ADAS system which needs to be reset via the dealership as very complex procedure while using very expensive and specialist equipment

Hi....welcome to the Club You could use covers or otherwise here is a selection of wheel nuts to fit your Astra along with some covers https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1313&_nkw=2014+vauxhall+astra+wheel+nuts&_sacat=131090

It is maybe related to the glow plug circuit to show it is working and then goes out once warm. If the light stays on then it signifies an error code has been flagged

Crankshaft Position Sensor sounds like the most likely culprit Works fine when cold after trying to restart on warm engine then no start. Let it cool then the resistance in the sensor changes back to normal and hey presto! Test and replace the sensor may be the answer

Turbo's should run indefinitely if the engine has had regular oil changes and the turbo treated properly (e.g. allowed to warm up and cool down times)

If you run the engine with the MAF sensor plug disconnected then it will run at a default setting which is close to where is should be so if the engine then runs well you know its the sensor. If it doesn't make any difference then I would be looking elsewhere.....possibly turbo variable vanes gummed up with carbon is a popular one for these symptoms

If you have the security code then this should be all you need to input into the unit to get it working once you have changed the battery

Is the switch actually broken (does if feel floppy or is there something clicking when you press it) otherwise could it be the connections or wiring?

Thanks for letting us know the outcome, sometimes brute force and ignorance is the only way forwards