Vauxhall Owners Club

Good luck with it and stay warm 🙂

Hi Phill.....welcome to the Club Damn fine looking car, always had a liking for the coupe body Good to have you onboard

glad you resolved it....would have been gutting to take the box off again

There are several engine oil flushes on the market...some you add to the oil and run the engine at idle for 10 minutes or so and other flushes (which are harder to find as they are a trade item mainly) which you drain out the old engine oil and half fill the sump with the flush oil, run for 10 minutes and then drain The latter works an absolute treat and really shifts the carbon deposits and sorts rattling hydraulic cam followers

Typical Nissan/Renault electrics....poor connections on the steering wheel controls

Hopefully the replacement flywheel should resolve the issue....but also maybe worth checking the clutch assembly for anything that could cause an imbalance. The noise is on overrun so more than likely a loose turbo/intercooler hose clip or even a slightly split hose creating an escape of pressurised boost

Hi Andy.....hope you are well? The tapping noise is usually a sign that the oil is not at it's best, and also maybe worth using a flush through the engine when you do an oil change. A good quality oil and of the correct grade should resolve this issue. It sounds like it could be a leaking cam cover responsible for the oil leak so I would programme this to be replaced at the same time as the oil change maybe? Keep us in the loop as to how it all goes. Cheers, Trevor

Hi L.moff .... welcome to the Forum Hope you're enjoying the Mokka? any issues as yet? Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor

kerrandsmith Welcome to the Forums As long as you can display the final price and location of all parts for sale for our Members to see then please feel free to use the For Sale section for your parts listings Regards, Trevor (Admin)

Thanks for the detailed feedback. The fact that air is escaping through the air intake could be that the inlet valve is still slightly open due to lower pressure not completely at BDC which would naturally occur when the pressure is high and the piston is forced downwards. Alternatively, if you had some way of securing the crank at BDC then try again. With the camcover emitting air, this again could be the piston at mid-bore which could have some ovality in the cylinder which is allowing air to escape past the rings. Try a small amount of oil in the bores to recheck the compression test to see if it improves the reading on the low cylinders.

Put some ideas forward and we can see if we can get it launched

SOunds very much like an inbalance on the flywheel or clutch plate (which would be unsprung for DMF) or the input shaft bearing not being a snug fit in the end of the crankshaft possibly? Alternatively it could be an issue with the engine misfiring slightly and being accentuated through the solid flywheel?

i would suspect the coolant pressure cap as being faulty. If it cannot hold the pressure beyond boiling point then the seal fails and releases pressure leading to coolant loss and overheating....simple and cheap fix, worth trying first

Hi ScotchVaux .....welcome to the Forum Good to have you onboard, feel free to post up any issues and we'll see if we can help out

SOunds like fun....but don't think my old spine could take the punishment

There are companies that can make specialist seat covers .... try this company https://carseatcovers-albert.co.uk/?utm_source=JaguarOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals

Glad you're enjoying it.....they're very underrated cars really

Oh dear...that can be expensive. It's not like you drove through a deep puddle or anything that you could claim on your insurance as water damage?

I would certainly take it to a transmission specialist and determine whether it needs a fluid and filter change. If it is the bands wearing down then the fluid will be a dirty brown colour and smell of burnt toast, if it is still red and clean then it just may be low on the fluid level.

If there is a light tapping from cold and then disappears as soon as the oil reaches the top end then it is nothing too much to worry about. It may be worth replacing the engine oil for a quality oil of the correct specifications and grade to try to eliminate the rattle.

Hi....welcome to the Forum I'm sure there must be some clues from the ECU fault code memory or live data which can be read to determine the cause. One area that may be worth checking if all power dropped off is the accelerator pedal sensor being at fault.

A cylinder leak down test would determine if there is any oil consumption via the cylinders, manifolds, breathers, rings, valves, etc. It's a very quick and simple test and if it comes back clear then you would at least eliminate these areas.

Wow! that is excessive. Cannot say I have ever seen a breather issue produce anything at this level. I would be looking at a cylinder fault and would be worth carrying out a cylinder leak down test which will determine the efficiency of the rings, valves, crankcase breather and manifolds.

Rather you than me....sounds like a right struggle 😞

Hi....and welcome to the Forum Looks in great condition, should last for many years with regular maintenance. Good to have you onboard