Hey All
Let me give my apologies on this post being a bit long winded, but i'm trying to give has much info has possible with the hope between us we can get a solution.
So the engine is a Z16XE1 in a 09 Zafira and i'm getting both on the pedal and OP-COM the error P1112-61 Port Deactivation Solenoid Valve Actuation Error. I checked the measuring blocks and i have 0.00-0.01 volts which needs to be i think around 3-5 volts if i'm right. I searched on here and found this thread [Zafira B] [05---] - P1112-61 Port Deactivation Solenoid...
It's EXACTLY the same has what i got including the EGR Valve being inactive despite replacing it with a new unit i also have a reading in OP-COM of incorrect value? and the EGR position is saying 0.7 %?. I have also cleaned the EGR channels (they was well blocked). So i purchased a used manifold and changed the actuator unit and solenoid,cleared the fault code took it for a test drive with OP-COM recording and came back with the fault code again ,checked the measuring blocks and voltage at port solenoid stayed at 0.01. So i then tried the output test option for the port deactivation (had a friend start the test), while i watched the port actuator under the bonnet the revs increased and the actuator arm operated correctly. I Know i got low voltage at the solenoid which suggests either a broken wire or a drain somewhere, but how can the actuator work under the output test but won't when the car is driving?. I know i got vacuum because when changing the sensor after removing the pipes i get the vacuum escape (air) i have also checked the fuses. Electrics in modern cars is something that confuses me ,but my thinking is the problem is electrical and what i'm struggling with is the ECU sends the signal to the actuator sensor, BUT and i'm assuming it's the electronic accelerator that sends a signal to the ECU to demand it opens both ports hence the signal gets sent to the port valve actuator to open the flaps. So with that in mind could i have a drain between the ECU and the port actuator , and if so how would i check it?. Also is there a way i could watch the voltage increase (if any) in OP-COM WHILE doing the output test? , if i can check the voltage while under test i should be able to rule out a faulty sensor and then move onto the broken wire/drain. Has you can see i have been working on this for a while now and i'm at a point where it goes beyond my electrical abilities so any help or any thing else i can try to solve this would be appreciated
Thank you in advance Regards Gary
