Derek2021

Hello Claire. The first thing I would do is to check the fuses- this will be in a panel just below the dashboard on the right hand side. Presumably from your post it is neither unlocking from the remote or from the key. If all else fails- and it's a bit of a pig of a job- if you climb into the boot and remove the plastic trim on the tailgate, you can see the locking mechanism and you might be able to pop that open. My Astra doesn't have a deadlock on the tailgate, but if yours does and the CL isn't working that might remain engaged- if so then it's finding the wires and locally applying power to it. First thing to do though is check the fuses. Always the fuses. Let us know if that doesn't solve the problem. Derek

Koolkuts, I have a petrol Vectra with the problem you describe the temperature gauge, but I'll wager yours might be similar. My engine is fitted with an electronic thermostat rather than a conventional bimetallic or thermal spring. When these fail they fail in the open position for safety reasons. Initially I thought I had a faulty gauge and a possible head issue due to the poor heating. Get it up to to near, but still below, what should be running temperature and then check the radiator. The radiator should be more or less cold. I'll bet it's quite warm and of so, that's problem 4 identified. Diesels hate being cold and this would be enough to do all sorts including poor fuel economy and power. Derek

Hello I have just downloaded the Haynes manual for an Astra 2002 2.0 diesel- the Haynes site correctly identified what it is, but then the download appeared as a 2004-2008 that doesn't include a 2.0l option. Has anyone come across this, please? I have emailed Haynes but being a bank holiday weekend, I won't get a reply for a few days. weekend. Also, as I cannot get to the car at the moment, can anyone tell me if this has a fuel tank mounted pump, or does it rely just on the main HP pump to perform that role? For reasons I won't bore anyone with, the garage that it initially went to have rather complicated matters and I am not entirely convinced their verdict was right... Any answers appreciated. Thanks. Derek

Hello Gavlar 2021 That's undoubtedly bearings inside the gearbox. Gear ratios are made up by combining 2 or more various pinions, for example gears 1 and 2 might use pinion combination A/B, with 1 also using C/D and 2 using E/F, for example. Often first gear provides the drive for reverse when engaged through a reverse idler, for example. You'll be looking at the 'box coming out for that, I'm afraid. However, a *good* gearbox repairer should be able to identify and replace the bearings quite quickly and for a modest price, but you'll need to check the rest of the bearings whilst the 'box is out. My opinion (not a guarantee) is that the repair to the 'box should not be expensive- the more expensive bit will be paying someone to take the box out. I can put you in touch with a good gearbox repair company, though they don't take them out the cars- just rebuild units sent to them... Most garages that claim to repair gearboxes in fact don't- they send them to places such as the workshop next to me, charge you a large markup in the process. If you know which workshops to go to and you take the gearbox straight in, the cost is much, much lower and you get to talk to a specialist rather than- with respect to most garages- basically a fitter. Good luck.